Today I am continuing my series on Lithuanian Costume, with a look at the costume of the region of Zanavykija also spelled Zanavykia or Zanavykai.. This is often grouped with the region of Kapsai to form the larger region of Suvalkija [Suvalkia]. There are many similarities between the two costumes, but there are also definite differences, so i will treat them separately. For more general information about this region, see this article.
This area had been rather depopulated because of war, and new settlers came here from Samogitia and Lithuania minor. This was one of the last regions to develop a particular costume, and the costumes of this area are very impressive, being from a fairly prosperous region. Here is a map showing the region of Zanavykia.
As you can see, it is bordered by Samogitija or Žemaitija on the north and Kapsai on the south. There are similarities to each of these regions.
The folk costume of Zanavykija is characterized by strong rich colors and a love of vertical stripes, as in Samogitia, and rich detail of ornament, especially overlay woven designs on the apron, as in Kapsai. Typical motifs are the Tulip and the star.. Here are a couple of depictions of this region's costume by V. Palaimas.
The earliest type of bodice used in Zanavykia consisted of four pieces of material which were sewn down to the waist, then left to hang free below that. It also had a shorter piece in front which connected the two sides. This type of bodice is today considered to be most typical of Dzukija, and it was soon superceded in Zanavykia by two other cuts.
All of the cuts used in Zanavykia were short, coming only a few inches below the waist. It was made of many different materials, both home woven and bought. Here is the more generic cut. Front and back view and schematic.
There is another cut which is distinctively unique to Zanavykia. The bodice is cut close to the waist, and below that is added a peplum which flares dramatically. Here are a front and back view and schematic of this cut.
The sashes in this region were particularly wide and woven with striking motifs, often with a central design and two narrow borders. They were always fringed, and as in other regions of Lithuania had crosswise supplemental fringes woven in weftwise, as well. Observe the variety of sashes in these images.
Jurkuviene treats this costume together with the one from Kapsai in her article.on Suvalkija.